Armani Privé’s Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection was a masterclass in understated chic, a return to the core elements that have defined his design philosophy for decades. The press notes themselves hinted at this direction, with the intriguing term “profoundly Armanian” – a descriptor that captured the essence of the show, much like “Prada-ness” embodies the spirit of that Italian powerhouse.
The presentation itself was quintessentially Armani: a prompt start in a brightly lit,air-conditioned room with a runway shimmering with a pearlescent sheen. The soundtrack, a lively mix of jazz and big band tunes, set the tone for a collection that was both sophisticated and energetic.
Pearls, a symbol of wisdom and purity across cultures, were the cornerstone of this collection, a deliberate choice by Armani in a world he believes lacks serenity. This theme translated beautifully into lustrous suiting with the signature soft sharpness that has become synonymous with the Armani name. Black tailoring, often rendered in luxurious velvet, took center stage, punctuated by gleaming pearl buttons and other accents that danced in the light.
Pantsuits were a highlight, featuring full-legged trousers with flattering cuts paired with neat, mostly hip-length jackets. The level of embellishment increased as the show progressed, culminating in a show-stopping black-and-white cardigan style adorned with a trembling lattice of pearls that mimicked tweed. This playful nod to Chanel, complete with fingerless gloves on some models, elicited a wry smile from one audience member, sparking a lighthearted conversation about the house’s design direction.
While pearls were undoubtedly the star of the show, Armani‘s masterful hand extended to a wider range of embellishments and embroideries. Notably, the color palette remained focused on black, white, and lustrous metallics, creating a cohesive and sophisticated look.
One of the most captivating pieces was a simple strapless dress with a stand-away square bodice entirely encrusted in crystals and beads. The bias-cut velvet skirt flowed flawlessly from the waist to the floor, a vision of timeless elegance. This shift towards a single, long, narrow silhouette marked a clear departure from the more exuberant shapes seen in Armani’s previous season, but it was a welcome change. This was Armani at his finest, serving up the soigné evening wear that has made him a favorite on the red carpet for decades.
While a few of the headpieces and jewelry pieces seemed to detract from some of the looks, and the show’s length of 89 exits (or 90 if you count Armani’s signature bow flanked by two models in mesh pearl dresses) felt slightly excessive, the overall impact was undeniable. Here’s the truth – though nearing his 90th birthday on July 11th, Armani remains a master of his craft. He continues to design ravishing dresses, as evidenced by the show-stopping black velvet double-breasted ankle-length coat sprinkled with pearls and crystals like constellations in the night sky. This Armani Privé’s Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection serves as a powerful reminder that true elegance never goes out of style.
Read more: Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2025 – Milan Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Giorgio Armani
