In a vast industrial space transformed by a field of copper linen blades, Zegna‘s Spring/Summer 2025 show, led by the inimitable Mads Mikkelsen, unveiled a collection that masterfully blends sartorial elegance with cutting-edge innovation. Creative director Alessandro Sartori’s vision for the season draws inspiration from the sun-drenched fields of Normandy, evoking a sense of romantic countryside landscapes and the warmth of the summer heat.
The collection celebrates the diversity of Zegna’s clientele, showcasing an array of non-professional models of various ages, each interpreting the brand’s aesthetic identity through their own unique lens. Sartori’s designs exude a newfound sensuality, reminiscent of the quintessential Italian elegance of the 1960s, breaking away from his signature minimalism and embracing a lighter, more insouciant approach.
Bold prints take center stage, with abstract botanical motifs inspired by Oasi Zegna, rendered in a rich palette of warm, organic tones that have become synonymous with the label. These eye-catching designs adorn jacquarded knitted jumpers, tucked into high-waisted fluid pants, and silk shirt jackets paired with matching shorts, creating a visual feast for the senses.
Sartori’s innovative approach to traditional suiting is evident throughout the collection, as he skillfully translates classic pieces into luxurious sportswear and imbues workwear with a refined, rich identity. His constant experimentation with new fabrications is exemplified by the introduction of a crease-less linen, achieved through a meticulous manual sanding treatment.
The designer’s attention to detail is unparalleled, as seen in the impeccably unlined and deconstructed suede jacket in a stunning golden tobacco shade, designed for easy disassembly and regeneration, promoting sustainability. Sartori’s commitment to intelligent design is further demonstrated by the use of matching linings in 90 percent of the sportswear, with linen lined with linen and cotton lined with cotton.
From the newly introduced notchless collar to the complex construction conundrums he solves with finesse, Sartori’s passion for clothing is evident in every aspect of the Zegna Spring/Summer 2025 collection. As he continues to redefine the way modern men approach self-presentation, Sartori’s tireless dedication to his craft is a testament to his unwavering love for fashion.
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©Photo: Zegna
