The HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled “Up, Up, and Away,” takes its cues from the ephemeral yet powerful nature of wind. Drawing inspiration from the phenomena caused by moving air, as well as the crafts and objects that respond to it, the collection embodies the forms and feelings evoked by a gentle breeze or a mighty gale.
Central to the collection’s design and manufacture is the use of lightweight, sheer fabrics that react and come alive with the movements of air. The brand’s signature pleating technology is leveraged to create billowing, layered silhouettes that sway and undulate as models walk the runway, evoking the mesmerizing dance of wind-blown objects.
The WINDSWEPT PLAID series features a distorted tartan print, capturing the dynamic movement of a pattern caught in a strong gust. The WINDSWEPT SHIRT series, crafted from airy, hand-pleated fabrics, boasts curved pleats reminiscent of wind-sculpted waves. A long, integrated tie can be worn loose, allowing it to drift and flow with the breeze.
Inspired by the architectural structure of kites, the KITE series presents garments that take on a sculptural shape when worn, as if twirling in the sky. Button fastenings allow the wearer to modulate the voluminous silhouettes, adapting to the wind’s intensity. The KITE COAT, with its curved seams and double stitching, can be folded into its own pocket, much like a kite collapsing into its cover.
The FRESHEN series, made from a blend of recycled nylon and cotton, features a soft, washed finish and a palette of fresh, natural hues. Jackets and pants are equipped with large, square pockets, adding a functional touch to the breezy aesthetic. The PARACHUTE series coats and short jackets incorporate harness-like straps, facilitating air circulation and creating a rounded, softly billowing silhouette. A concealed inner belt allows the garments to be rolled and fastened for easy transport.
The MC JANUARY series coats, available in a spectrum of vibrant colors, showcase a soft, rounded silhouette. Extra openings in the arms enable the sleeves to float gracefully, catching the wind like the wings of a bird in flight. The collection’s color palette, a harmonious blend of bright and subdued tones, further emphasizes the interplay of light and air.
The runway presentation itself echoed the collection’s theme. Vincent de Belleval, collaborating with the design team, created a mesmerizing scenography featuring tall, delicate sculptures with slatted, bulbous tops. These sculptures swayed gently, mimicking the movement of windblown objects and further immersing the audience in the collection’s breezy spirit.
Read more: Études Spring/Summer 2025 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE
