In his Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Beijing-based designer Sean Suen explores the fluid nature of gender and the interplay between Western and Chinese sartorial traditions. Drawing inspiration from Mei Lanfang, the celebrated male opera artist known as the “Queen of Peking Opera” for his portrayal of female characters, Sean Suen presents a lineup that challenges modern ideals of masculinity and virility.
The collection seamlessly blends the tailored formalwear and suits favored by Lanfang in his personal life with the attire used in his portrayal of ancient noble ladies. A palette of cream, pearl gray, and black dominates, with occasional bursts of saffron yellow, cinnabar red, and greens evoking the vibrant hues of opera costumes.
Sean Suen’s mastery of precise yet relaxed tailoring shines through in slimline dinner jackets fused with mandarin styles and tailored trousers finished with silk cuffs, exuding a nonchalant air. Layered, extra-long jackets and shirt sleeves telegraph a youthful insouciance, while coats are adorned with long panels draped over the shoulders like elegant shawls.
Ties take on unexpected roles, serving as sashes or fringing cascading over suit trousers. In a bold move, Sean Suen groups a dozen ties to create a plastron finished with tassels – a striking statement piece. Strands of pearls, used as closures or accessories, add a charming touch and align with the growing appetite for the gemstone in men’s jewelry.
Backstage, pictures of Mei Lanfang, both on and off stage, adorn the walls, serving as a constant reminder of the artist’s influence. “You can see how handsome he was, and it wasn’t about him being masculine or feminine; it was everything mixed together,” Sean Suen remarks, encapsulating the essence of his Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
Read more: Lemaire Spring/Summer 2025 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Sean Suen
