Craig Green‘s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection, presented at the designer’s Silvertown studio, is a deeply personal exploration of the complex relationships between fathers and sons. The collection showcases Green’s signature blend of poetry and pragmatism, raising thought-provoking questions about what defines masculinity and the influences that shape it.
Inspired by his own experience of losing his father, Green explores the tensions and dual expectations that exist between fathers and sons. The collection is a testament to his unique ability to transform shared anxieties arising from masculine gender conditioning into beautiful, meaningful clothing.
Green’s clothing language is rooted in the utilitarian workwear such as chino pants, chore jackets, trench coats and duffel bags that form the core of his business. But the Spring/Summer 2025 collection takes that foundation to new heights, incorporating the deconstruction and reconstruction of heavy-duty industrial tools and sports equipment. Exoskeletal biker jackets made from Ecco leather feature layers of protective patches, hinting at the darker aspects of masculinity.
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The collection also draws on Green’s childhood memories, particularly the curiosity of taking apart engines to understand their inner workings. This theme is reflected in the draped, poncho-like blends of cotton handkerchiefs, tea towels, and polo shirts, some of which are adorned with naive images of cars and trucks reminiscent of childhood bedroom decorations and bibs.
As the show progresses, the collection evolves toward a sense of liberation, with tissue-like layered pajamas, gorgeously printed tabards, and woven art pieces. Green’s work acknowledges the memories, love, and ambivalence inherent in the male experience, ultimately offering a path to freedom through self-expression.
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection also features collaborations with Fred Perry and Eastpak, showcasing pop collared shirts and essential backpacks with elongated straps and removable pouches. Asymmetrical draping, semi-transparent fabrics and signature knits with unraveling cords add depth and texture to the collection, while four looks in recycled hand-woven jersey with blooming floral illustrations provide a stunning finale.
Read more: Gucci Men’s Spring/Summer 2025 show to be presented at Triennale Milano
©Photo: Craig Green
