Chitose Abe, the visionary designer behind Sacai, has once again pushed the boundaries of fashion with her latest collections for Men’s Spring/Summer 2025 and Women’s Resort 2025 (Cruise 2025). Drawing inspiration from the iconic rebel James Dean and the spirit of 1950s America, Abe has crafted a lineup that seamlessly blends nostalgia with contemporary innovation.
The collections pay homage to the timeless appeal of 1950s American style, but with a distinctly Sacai twist. Oversized Harrington jackets and chinos are given new life through clever proportions and unexpected details. Denim, a staple of the era, undergoes a dramatic transformation in Abe’s hands. Jean jackets are nipped, tucked, and pleated into eye-catching shapes for men, while women’s pieces feature bold splicing techniques that create unique silhouettes.
Sacai’s partnership with Levi’s and WTAPS, a cult Japanese streetwear brand, adds depth and authenticity to the collections. Military-inspired garments are reimagined with architectural shoulders, bringing an extra layer of swagger to field jackets and leather perfectos. The juxtaposition of hard and soft fabrics creates intriguing textures and forms throughout the lineup.
The collegiate influence is unmistakable, with models carrying stacks of books secured by straps – a charming nod to 1950s student life. Varsity-style jackets adorned with vibrant prints of cars and flowers capture the essence of youthful energy. Wide-leg chinos paired with slouchy cardigans and Fair Isle sweaters evoke a sense of scholarly cool.
Abe’s mastery of hybrid clothing is on full display. Little black dresses take cues from 18th-century frock coats, featuring long, rippling back panels. Jackets and minidresses boast voluminous, crinkled sleeves reminiscent of Renaissance nobility. The designer’s signature “complicated simplicity” is evident in pieces that seamlessly merge tailored elements with flowing, sheer fabrics.
The collections are complemented by carefully chosen accessories that enhance the overall aesthetic. J.M. Weston penny loafers and Nike sneakers – part of an ongoing collaboration – ground the looks in both tradition and modernity.
Read more: Kolor Spring/Summer 2025 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Sacai
